AdvanceD draping:
Robe de cour
Hugh Hanson as Instructor
Yin-Xue Wang as Model
front
back
For my project in this course, I chose to recreate the gown in the Portrait of Anne (1750) by Tischbein. I researched garments and understructures of the era, to be as faithful in my recreation of this Robe de Cour as possible while exploring modern methodologies along the way.
The fully boned covered stays originated from a pattern from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 5. For my work I utilized synthetic whalebone in replacement of baleen. A layer of baby flannel interlining prevented the boning from showing through the silk face fabric. The closure featured hand-worked eyelets on a hidden placket. The detachable sleeves were joined through a series of loops and ties, and featured lace and silk gauze trimming.
The pannier was a recreation of a pattern found in Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh. With this garment I sought to incorporate modern material and methods to reduce the weight. My version used nylon horsehair and poly tubing.
The skirt was made of eight yards of cartridge pleated embroidered silk taffeta, bag lined to silk organza.
Portrait of Anne, Princess Royal and Princess of Orange (1709-1759), ca.1750, by Johann Valentin Tischbein
Pannier of nylon horsehair and poly tubing
Detail of boned bodice linen foundation before covered with felt and fashion fabric
Detail of boned bodice interior with hand worked eyelets